Haute couture (French for "high sewing" or "high dressmaking". It originally referred to French fashion and in France, is a "protected name" that can be used only by firms that meet certain well-defined standards. However, the term is also used loosely to comprise all high-fashion custom-fitted clothing, whether it is produced in Paris or in other fashion capitals such as New York, London, and Milan. Haute couture is made to order for a specific customer, and it is usually made from high-quality, expensive fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finish, often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques.
In France, the term haute couture is protected by law and is defined by the Chambre de commerce et d’industrie de Paris based in Paris, France. Their rules state that only "those companies mentioned on the list drawn up each year by a commission domiciled at the Ministry for Industry are entitled to avail themselves" of the label haute couture. The criteria to which a fashion house must adhere in order to be categorized haute couture were laid down in 1945 and updated in 1992.
To earn the right to call itself a couture house and to use the term haute couture in its advertizing and any other way, members of the Chambre Syndicale must follow these rules: * Design made-to-order for private clients that require one or more fittings. * Have a workshop (atelier) in Paris that employs full-time a minimum of fifteen people. * Present to the press in Paris each season (spring/summer and autumn/winter) a collection of at least thirty-five runs comprising outfits for both daytime wear and evening wear.
However, the term haute couture has been misused by successive ready-to-wear brands and high street labels since the late 1980s so that its true meaning has become blurred with that of prêt-à-porter (the French term for ready-to-wear fashion) in the public perception. Every haute couture house also markets prêt-à-porter collections, which typically deliver a higher return on investment than their custom clothing. In fact, much of the haute couture displayed at fashion shows today is rarely sold; it is created to enhance the good name of the house. Falling revenues have forced a few couture houses to abandon their less profitable couture division and concentrate solely on the less prestigious prêt-à-porter. These houses, such as Italian designers Valentino, Versace, and Antonio Capucci, all of whom have their workshops in Italy, are no longer considered haute couture.
Couture Sewing - technique ... - by Claire B. Shaeffer A guide to the techniques of couture sewing. The book begins with hand-sewing, the basis for every haute couture garment and then introduces the reader to the world of haute couture, sharing the craftsmanship of the most skilled artisans in the world, including: Christian Dior; Yves St Laurent; Coco Chanel; Hubert de Givenchy; Balenciaga; Schiaparelli; Valentino; and Lecoanet Hemant. The guide also includes over 100 colour photographs and 131 step-by-step pattern illustrations.
From the workrooms of world fashion, including Dior, Chanel, and Givenchy, the secrets of couture craft are detailed, enabling home sewers to refine their skills. Shaeffer, author of many sewing titles, focuses on the fine construction techniques of haute couture and reviews hand stitching, making pleats or finished pockets, shaping a perfect fit, producing flawless finishing, and creating beautiful embellishments and closures. Special attention is given to creating couture jackets, coats, and evening wear. Photographs of fashions and drawings of techniques accompany the text. Not for beginning sewers, this title is for libraries serving those interested in studying and re-creating the art and science of haute couture.
This is truly a wonderful book for those ready to step beyond "speed sewing" and rotary cutting to creating beautiful garments with exquisit finishing. I've been sewing for 20 years and never knew how different couture sewing techniques are from those the rest of us commonly use. As precisely used in this text the word "haute couture" only applies to those 20 or so designer houses in France who meet certain strict standards regulated by the government. Fascinating! This is a book to read and study, lots of carefully detailed text and good photographs of haute couture designs and finishing techniques. Did you know there are at least five different hand basting stitches and even more permanent hand sewing stitches for garment construction? Did you know couture houses don't use paper patterns? That their seam allowances are usually at least one inch wide? That most of their basting is done from the RIGHT side of the garment? That most seam edges are finished by hand -- even into the curve clips? That most garments are constructed entirely by hand? That steaming, shrinking and molding garment sections by pressing are as important to the shaping process as the sewing? And I'm not just talking about pressing seams open here. Wow! And I thought I knew how to sew.
While other books may use "couture" in their titles this book means it. While I've said this isn't for the fainthearted anyone who sews clothing will find some new and accessible technique here. Grab it, keep it near your sewing machine and if you only add one new technique with each project your skill, pride and satisfaction in your work will grow immensely.
